How do I prune a crape myrtle without committing "crape murder"?

"Crape murder" is the all-too-common practice of topping crape myrtles into ugly stubs each year. It's unnecessary and harmful — proper crape myrtle pruning is light and preserves the plant's beautiful natural form.

Why topping is bad:

• It produces a cluster of weak, spindly shoots from each cut, which flop under the weight of flowers
• It creates knuckle-like scars and ruins the graceful branching habit
• It does not make the plant healthier or bloom more — crape myrtles bloom on new growth regardless

How to prune correctly (late winter, while dormant):

1. Remove suckers at the base and any growth along the lower trunks to reveal the attractive bark.
2. Thin out crossing, rubbing, or inward-growing branches.
3. Remove branches smaller than a pencil and any dead wood.
4. Cut back to a branch junction or the trunk — never leave stubs, and never make flat-topping cuts.
5. If you want a smaller plant, choose a dwarf cultivar rather than fighting a large one with annual butchering.

Pro tip: Spent seed heads can be tip-pruned for a tidier look, but it's optional — the plant will rebloom either way.

The goal is a small multi-trunked tree with smooth, exfoliating bark and an open, vase-shaped canopy. See our Pruning Calendar for more.